Despite its bucolic name, The Harrow isn’t some timeless local pub, but a full-blown country restaurant in a secluded village on the Kennet & Avon Canal. Serious ambition is confirmed by an array of awards & testimonials from Michelin to Robert Parker, & the interior affirms its classy credentials with muted modern shades, high-backed leather chairs & crisp white linen in the recently refreshed, unstuffy dining areas. The accomplished modern cooking is driven by high-quality seasonal ingredients – with day-boat catches from Brixham showing up strongly. Starters are occasionally jazzed up with oriental flavours & ingredients (sashimi of lobster with Japanese salad), & there are useful by-the-glass suggestions for each course: Glaetzer Bishop Shiraz 2006 with grey partridge, savoy cabbage & apple sauce, say. The full wine list is an oenophile’s delight, with bottles from serious growers around the globe at very fair prices. 5 Stars